Dosage V - premiere 4th of June

4 juni is het dan eindelijk zo ver !! Dosage V van de Big Up Productions gaat in premiere in het Boulder Theater in Boulder, Colorado. Het wordt weer kijken naar vele bekende namen zoals: Dani Andrada, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Paxti Usobiaga, Dave Graham en natuurlijk ook Chris Sharma. Eind juni worden de DVD'd voor de USA verwacht, dus voor Europa waarschijnlijk wat later. I can't wait.
(Bron: Bigupproductions.com)

Da House Wall Extended Version

I have got a nice home climbing wall but every man's may meet his match.....

The V-grade Bishop Explained

eh, eh, this is funny stuff. I bit out-dated since the grade went up to V16 nowadays, but still.
Made up by John Sherman in 1998:

A practical guide to applying the V-system
V0 A problem you wouldn't admit to doing no matter how cool it was.
V1 A problem you would admit to doing, if it had loose holds, a death landing, and your partner backed off of it.
V2 A problem, if cool enough, that you would recommend to others to prove you're not a ratings snob.
V3 A problem you ruthlessly wire and incorporate into your warm-uproutine, in the hopes that visiting partners will struggle on it.
V4 A problem that might give you trouble, but "Hey, anything below V5 is so easy I can't tell the difference."
V5 A problem, if you were to live in Boulder, Colorado, that you might actually flash.
V6 A problem, if you were to live in Boulder, Colorado, that you would expect your girlfriend to flash.
V7 A problem you fell on repeatedly, but really, you could have flash edit.
V8 A problem you religiously avoid, because you're "saving it for the flash."
V9 A problem you have no chance of flashing.
V10 A problem you knew you could have done, even though your spotter took 10kg off for you, so you counted it anyway.
V11 A problem, if flashed, that you might get free shoes for, but only if you fax the mags this month.
V12 A problem you would do if only your fingers were a bit smaller, yourreach a bit longer, your spotter more attentive, the weather moreamenable, your shoes not so blown out, your elbow not so sore fromtraining, the sun not in your eyes, and you didn't eat that funkytake-out Chinese the night before.
V13 A problem commensurate with your well-published abilities, that you deserve credit for, even though you didn't do it, because as the mags reported, "It was too humid."
V14 A problem only Fred Nicole could do, after you gave him the beta.

(source: www.fishproducts.com)

Google Climbing Logo

Google laat regelmatig zijn logo spreken voor een gebeurtenis. Zo ook het bovenstaande logo die de eerstbeklimming van de Mount Everest (op 29 mei 1953 door Sir Edmund Hillary (NZ) en Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) via de South Col Route) verbeeld. Klik afbeelding voor EverestNews

Some Climbing(related) Cartoons

(bron:cartoonstock.com)

Climbing Clause with new Job

Yesterday I read an article about an emplyer who lured new employees with a Windsurfing Clause. It states as much that if the weather circumstances for windsurfing are good, the employee may surf during working hours! Though this is allowed twice a month and only if it does not interfere the appointments scedule with clients, the remaining work has to be done in the evening hours. Still a appropriate aggreement! Could such a deal be made for climbing as well ?! In this times of deficit in the labor market I think employers are more easily inclined to make such deals.

So in the negotiations for the conditions of employment the following statements may be heard: 'Ah yes, and besides the holiday pay and an additional month's salary in december I would like to have stated in my contract that I may leave my work twice a month to climb the rocks of my choice. With a climbing partner, ofcourse, who needs the same clause in his/hers contract. Which you will arrange as well.' har, har ! The good times are coming.

(p.s. the article above is fake and has no relation whatsoever with this blog post)

Mega Climbing Competition "Wall"

Een muur kun je het eigenlijk niet meer noemen, maar gaaf klimmen is het wel !! (als je van 'pumpy routes houdt). Onder het mom van beter goed gejat dan slecht gekopieerd hebben de organisatoren van de Skymaster Climbing Competition (UK, sponsored by Ford...duh) even het concept geleend van de ijsklimwedstrijden. Veel zwevende klimobjecten met maar liefst 38 meter dak, inclusief een hele trits stalactieten. Check de link voor meer info en pics.

(bron: routesetter.com)

DIMA Block - Four times a Hero

Kijk, hopelijk zijn deze heren er allemaal bij op BAZ 2009. En als daar dan ook het nieuwe soort bouldercompetitie gehouden wordt als bij DIMA Block in Spanje dan zet je BAZ helemaal als 'most wanted bouldercompetition' op de lijsten.

Afgelopen weekend waren Andrada, Mrazek, Sharma en Sainz de vier boulderaars die het in DIMA Block tegen elkaar op mochten nemen. Ieder moest in 30 minuten een boulder in elkaar schroeven waarna ze per boulder 10 minuten de tijd hadden om 'm te klimmen. De crux zat 'm niet alleen in het klimmen maar ook het maken van de route. Te makkelijk betekende dat iedereen hem kon klimmen, te moeilijk zou inhouden dat jezelf er niet doorheen zou kunnen komen. Een goeie formule met een vlotte doorlooptijd. Kennis van je eigen kunnen, én die van de andere klimmers, was hier dus een pre. Een spel dat Sharma het best onder de knie had. Hij klom alle vier de boulders tegen Mrazek twee. Sainz en Andrada konden geen van de boulders toppen.

(bron: czechclimbing.com / photo credits by: kairn.com )