8/28/2009

Steve McClure on TV (BBC1)

I found this little piece of info by McClure quite funny to read:

Funny game climbing, sometimes its like buses, you wait for ages, getting more and more frustrated, and then, just when you’ve given up, two come along at once.
Last week was a weird week. It began in typical British style, the style we expect now in summer. We drove to the crag and found it utterly soaking. Everywhere else was wet too; we drove straight back home to the local climbing wall! With damp weather for a while my motivation had been sliding downwards as fast as I slid from the greasy footholds. That day it took a distinct nose dive to zero. Indoors in August was just not right. I gave up! Mentally I packed in climbing for a while. There were some parties to go to for the next few days. Then it got boiling hot, too hot to climb, then I climbed Hubble! This was confusing but very nice indeed. Perhaps my shortest and most bouldery route ever. Now I could really relax and party!

Before this I’d been trying a route at Malham cove, a link between Bat Route, Rainshadow and Overshadow, but with quite a lot of new climbing. I dreamt this up a while ago but was inspired to get involved after I got a call from the British Broadcasting Corporation (the TV)! read more

8/27/2009

Air Star (V14 - South Africa) by Kilian Fischhuber

Kilian Fischhuber has sent a problem at Rocklands, South Africa, previously dubbed the Air Star Project, that likely is V14 or harder. The problem, which had been worked by Kevin Jorgeson and Nalle Hukkataival, has V6 moves leading to a big dyno to a sharp flake, followed by scary V8 or V9 climbing to the top-out. Fischhuber, from Austria, has been the world’s number-one competition boulderer for the past three years.
Emerson said that previous attempts on the Air Star dyno had involved a leg-swinging move to build momentum which Emerson dubbed the “Moon Kick,” after English boulderer Ben Moon. Though Fischhuber reportedly declined to use the Moon Kick to send Air Star, this simple, fascinating technique is well-illustrated in the following video

(source:B3bouldering.com)

8/26/2009

Fight Gravity - NEW Website

Last year Maurice and I had the idea to make pay tribute to Wolfgang Güllich by making a Che Guevara-like T-shirt. At Boulderen aan Zee (dutch version) - "bouldering at the sea" for ya Eng-linguists) they were noticed. And how !

This year he went way beyond his first idea and some new goodies are thrown into the world ! The famous red-and-white striped climbing pants of Wolfgang were recreated and who knows can be ordered soon at his site ! Retro climbing lives and who knows will be the next hot thing in the climbing society the coming season.
Check for more info and other climbing-related news at www.fightgravity.nl
(source: where else ! fgthgrvt.nl YO M. you rule !!)

8/25/2009

Climbing the Stairs-Chairs

Art for art's sake? a flight of chairs to be used as chairs perhaps.
A short one for today, but I'm too busy now. Next one will be more elaborate.

(source: stumbleupon.com)