Here's a few pics of me routesetting boulders at my backyard boulderwall. I took off all my holds and first made a nice route for my 4 year old daughter (Yellow Brick Road). Then I used all my imagination and inspiring moments of the World Cup Bouldering Eindhoven 2009 to make all sorts of new and hard moves. Suprisingly I was able to make lots of routes which I couldn't climb directly afterwards. I had to sort out most of it during the following weeks and still there are unclimbed variations. Ha !! this promises more fun and hard training for the coming months.
Of course this training pays off at my climbing grades in the climbing gym (and in the rock soon...) and fun !! of exploring the higher grade routes which are new to me. Not any more I warm up with loads of 5 and 6 grade routes. Mostly I warm up with something like 5b - 6a - 6b and then start projecting 6c and 7a routes. It works for me as long as I feel rested before the training and be able to focus on the route at hand.
Hmmm, can't wait to go to the rock soon. Maybe Fontainebleau on my way back from southern France in the summer. L8terz.