10/16/2009

The Power of Jam / Video from the roadtrip of Nicolas Favrese and Sean Villanueva

Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva spent four months in fall 2008 traveling western North America (the pair are from Belgium) with their climbing gear, a mandolin, a tin whistle and a penchant for hitchhiking. From Squamish to the Bugaboos to Yosemite to Indian Creek they did bold repeats, set new routes and played many a jam session along the way. Click the pic to check out the film about their trip.

(source weblog of Nicolas Favresse)

10/14/2009

Berni Schwaiger - Anam Cara 8C (Silvretta)

Berni Schwaiger bouldering in the beautifull Silvretta (Austria) region. A short (duh) boulder route at 8C level with pretty small holds making body tension a must. Watch in awe (click picture to start the movie).

(source: climb-up.com)

Gunshow Boulder Venue Colorado

I found this video with footage on the net at Routesetter.com
Lot's of action and the familiar buzz of a boulder contest. Note the fabulous 'rock structure' of the boulderwall and the yeah! mantle moves you can make on them. Real Bleau-like. Love it.

By the way click on the Vimeo Link in the top righthand corner of my blog. To give it the full size left click with the mouse and select 'full screen'. Njoy !!

10/13/2009

Frankenjura Climbing Update - Ondra / Bock / Seeger

Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.
A crisp autumn has facilitated important ascents in Germany's Frankenjura. Sarah Seeger kicked off the high-end action on Saturday 3 October with her redpoint of Steinbock, a steeply overhanging 22 move 8c at the Orakel first ascended by Markus Bock in August 2008. After redpointing Ronin (10+/11-) earlier this year, Steinbock is now Seeger's hardest route to date and contemporaneously is also the hardest route climbed by a woman in the Frankenjura.A day after Seeger's success Markus Bock experienced "one of the happiest moments" in his climbing career when he freed The Man That Follows Hell at the aptly named Grüne Hölle. Bock's latest effort is in fact an old project originally bolted by Milan Sykora (thge man who envisioned the line of Action Directe) and a direct start to the existing Kawaschuwu (8c+). The straightened out version weighs in at 9a+ and the 30 year old described it as follows for the German climbing magazine Klettern: "16 moves - exactly as many as Action Directe 9a - with comparable climbing and steepness - yet the individual moves are significantly harder." Bock stuck the crux on his seventh try on 4 October of what is now, together with his 2006 testpiece Corona, the Frankenjura's hardest route.Talking about Kawaschuwu - last weekend Adam Ondra repeated this route third go, a day after redpointing Pantera (9a) which he had first attempted in June. Ondra needed 4 days to climb this nth Bock creation, a record for the young Czech climber who no doubt will have "Follows Hell" high on his agenda.
(source: planetmountain.com)