6/24/2009

6/22/2009

Adam Ondra does first repeat Huber classic Om (9A)

It was simply a question of time, but in this case it really was a long time coming. 17 years to be precise. An eternity.The chapter was finished off by him once again, by 16 year old Adam Ondra who last weekend carried out the first repeat of Om at Endstal, Germany. The plot had been written in 1992 by 24 year old Alexander Huber who with this small work of art paved the way for his personal research of the hardest difficulties. A search which, after Weiße Rose 9a in 1994 at Austria's Schleierwasserfall, culminated two years later with the nearby Open Air 9a+.
Read more at Planetmountain.com

6/18/2009

What others wrote about the World Cup Bouldering Eindhoven 2009

These are the sites and blogs I could find with info and pictures about the World Cup Bouldering held in Eindhoven (Netherlands) 2009.

- Worldcupboulder (English page of the organisation MONK)
- Climbing.nl (Dutch Climbing homepage)
- Planetmountain.com (International climbing news)
- Nicky de Leeuw (Dutch Team Climber and current holder of the world record dyno (2,8m)
- BLadOverKlimmen (Dutch climbing magazine)
- Kilian Fischhuber (Austrian boulderer and four times winner of the boulder world cup)
- Czech Climbing
- Boudewijn Bollman (Pictures)

Interview with Daila Ojeda

(Daila Ojeda climbing 'China Crisis 8B+, in Oliana - picture by Pete O'Donovan)

Being one of the (if not THE) most talented and inspirational climber of Spain Daila Ojeda can be truely inspiring. Her motto 'a muerte', meaning something like 'to the utmost'or 'to give all you've got', is an example of with how much energy and passion she is committed to climbing.

In an interview that was held by Andrea Cartas you can have a little insight in the life of a remarkable climber.
(source: 8a.nu)

6/17/2009

Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda projecting OIiana

Chis Sharma is on the projecting path again, and this time it's not Margalef but the area Oliana.

Daila Ojeda writes on her blog that Chris had done "Pachamama" 9a+ hard F.A a 50 metres routes that was bolted by Chris. He also has done the F.A of two more new routes in Oliana 8c+, bolted by himself, and "Blanquita" 8c+ bolted by the master Dani Andrada.
(source: climbing.nl and dailaojeda.blogspot.com)

Dosage V - Movie Trailer (Woods, Rodden, Caldwell)


Wonder what's in store for you if you haven't bought the climbing movie Dosage V yet? Check this link or click the pic to find out what's waiting for you.
BTW, Beth Rodden has a very cunning way of saving time placing pro in a 'seemingly' difficult route...

6/16/2009

Animation Cartoon - Presto the Magician Pixar Studio's

OK, just another Cartoon by Pixar because they are so brilliant !! (click the pic to see the movie)

Short Animation Movie - Partly Cloudy by Disney/Pixar Studio's


Time for some less serious stuff. A short animation film made by the (in)famous Disney/Pixar studio's.
"Everyone knows that the stork delivers babies, but where do the storks get the babies from? The answer lies up in the stratosphere, where cloud people sculpt babies from clouds and bring them to life.
Gus, a lonely and insecure grey cloud, is a master at creating "dangerous" babies. Crocodiles, porcupines, rams and more —Gus's beloved creations are works of art, but more than a handful for his loyal delivery stork partner, Peck.
As Gus's creations become more and more rambunctious, Peck's job gets harder and harder. How will Peck manage to handle both his hazardous cargo and his friend's fiery temperament?"
To see the movie click the picture.

6/15/2009

Pictures Semi Finals + Final World Cup Bouldering 2009 Eindhoven


Jorg Verhoeven, overall worldchampion climbing, trying hard on the third boulder in the semi finals....
... but it just won't work.

IFSC jury and NKBV jury concentrating hard to process the right results.


Kilian Fischhuber preparing for his next boulder by using liquid magnesium...

... and plastering it with regular magnesium after that.

Boulder cleaner and boulder jury have to be alert all the way.

Kilian Fischhuber making another top attempt in the men's semi finals...

... and pulling hard...

... and succeeds again.

Jorg Verhoeven struggling to make the next move (semi finals M4)

Jorg Verhoeven with the austrian women's equipe (from left to right: Katharina Saurwein, Sabine Bacher, Anna Stöhr and Barbara Bacher).

Wouter Jongeneelen in one of the hardest moves in boulder 3 during the semi finals.

Melvin Redeker the Dutch climber/photographer ready for the action during the semi finals.

Kilian Fischhuber balancing through the last boulder of the semi final.

Wouter Jongeneelen live and on screen in his last boulder of the semi finals.

Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) climbing the tricky move in the last men's boulder from the semi finals. Being second in the world cup series bouldering he could not live up to the expectations, and did not top all the boulders.
Ayuki Noguchi trying the 'impossible move' from boulder 3 in the finals. None of the women succeeded in mastering this move.
To view all the results from the world cup bouldering Eindhoven check this link and to watch video footage from the men's qualifications go here.

6/12/2009

Qualifications World Cup Bouldering 2009 Netherlands

Pictures tell more than words. These are a few of my shots that I was able to take between my Jury duties. Cool to see a bunch of the world top boulder climbers before your eyes !


6/11/2009

World Cup Bouldering 2009 Netherlands - Last Preps

Rustam Gelmanov from Russia listening to the technical meeting in MONK

The Japanese climbing team enlisting for the World Cup. Is Tim talking japanese or gibberish...

Last minute copy and paste work.

Some of the jury inspecting the boulder wall and watching the routesetters making their last changes. It's gonna be cool !!

(pictures by Paschnampook)

Dilbert Comic - Delegating Strategy


Love the sarcasm in this one.
(source: dilbert.com)

World Cup Bouldering 2009 - One night to go

The media is getting more interested in the coming World Cup Bouldering 2009 held in Eindhoven (Netherlands). For the Dutch see this link for an article about the climbing bro's Nicky and Ricardo de Leeuw. Click here and here to see pictures of the last preparations and climbers getting ready. And don't miss the Dyno Contest at Sunday !! (see the dyno wall below).


(source: climbing.nl)

6/10/2009

Cat Showing Dissapointment after Bird Hunt Failure

Watch the cat's reaction after she misses her attempt to catch the pidgeon.... yuk yuk (click the picture to see video)

(source:offbeatenough.com)

6/08/2009

Boulderwall for World Cup Eindhoven 2009


Last saturday a dress rehearsal for the World Cup in Eindhoven 2009 was held in MONK (Eindhoven - Netherlands). All the members of the Dutch Climbing team (minus Vera Zijlstra and Wouter Jongeneelen who were at the World Cup in Vail), the wildcard holders and the judges were present for the Try Out (see here for results). Primarily it was a test for the boulder judges to see if we were ready for the real thing. I was the only one with only theoretical experience. And as such the only one to get my first time experience as a judge on a World Cup !! As a dress rehearsal should be, lots of things went wrong. But the rule states the premiere will be flawless !

Ofcourse all the climbers did well to test us and made a lot of 'mistakes' to see if we, the judges, are up for the real thing (thanks Casper and Michiel :P). So besides being serious we had fun as well.
See this link (7th of june) for a post from Nicky de Leeuw (sorry only in Dutch).

After the try out we went to the Klokgebouw where the World Cup 2009 will be held and saw the beautiful and colourful wall for ourself. Check it out ! and be there at the World Cup.


(pictures by paschnampook)