12/24/2009
Red Bull Urban Bloc - Anna Stoehr (by Rainer Eder)
12/23/2009
Simon's Cat - Snow Business part 1
Calvin and Hobbes - Christmas Loot Reprise
Simon's Cat - Snow Business Part1
12/21/2009
Chris Sharma Neanderthal - part 2
Bjorn Pohl reports:
I just had a chat with David Graham, who's snowed in with Jon Cardwell in Cataluña. He said they were all kinda laughing at the Neanderthal reports because they're all so off regarding the route.
"The route is like a 9a (more or less) which is comprised of something like four 7C blocs on a row, very resitant, on pinches and kinda crack like features. There are some holds to shake on in between the last 7C and the crux which is this dyno. The dyno is a move from a crimp and a two finger pocket to a sloper brick. Then there is a jug after a couple more moves. The boulder must be 8A minimum.
Then there is a small rest, a small boulder, maybe 3 moves, not so hard, then a big rest. Then it is a maybe 8a+/8b route to the end of the cave, out another little bulge.
Thus the route is something like a 9a, to a 8A bloc, to a big rest, which makes solid 9a+ or easy 9b? Then about 8a+/8b route outro climb after a big rest in a break.
This is Neanderthal."
To be continued or not? I'll keep U posted.
Chris Sharma sets another possible 9b in Santa Linya
12/17/2009
12/15/2009
Climate Change?? - Economical Energy !!
I think it's true that men consume much more than we should, and in that sense we change the 'world'. But to say we can change the climate and make a shift in the global system is much more 'credit' than men should get.
So all in all we should focus on consuming less, including energy. Contrary to the filosophy of Cradle2Cradle where the focus lies on 'consume more' if the equation waste=energy is true.It's the way of living we should worry about (consuming, production, waste, environmental health) not the amount of CO2 or the global warming that certainly could originate by the earht's system itself.
12/14/2009
Sports Center Paris - Mulifunctional vs Monotonic
Joining cube-shaped, basic concrete structures with an overlay and creating a sports court on top of the building have not only increased the building’s usability and maximized the use of the site, but also accommodated the complex’s surprisingly easy fit into the site. A monolithic, monotonic approach would have created a mass much more imposing and seemingly unfriendly than the varying-height structure with its pixelated glass facade that now draws children in through color and an abundance of natural light.
12/10/2009
Comic - Climate Summit Copenhagen 2009
12/08/2009
Tim Burton on the mov(i)e again - Interview and news
At the end of November, the Museum of Modern Art in New York mounted an exhibit of the sketches, paintings, storyboards, props, cartoons, and puppets created by director Tim Burton. Wired.com chatted with Burton about the birth of Edward Scissorhands, the rise of 3-D, and anthropomorphic coffee pots, look here for the interview.
The above picture comes from the set of 'a bride corpse' (2005) a brilliant puppet stop-motion film. Set in Victorian England, the story of Corpse Bride begins with an arranged marriage between recently bankrupt Victoria Everglot (Emily Watson) and Victor Van Dort (Johnny Depp). Put together by their parents, the two find that they really are attracted to each other and are more than happy for the wedding to go ahead. But when Victor makes a hash of the rehearsal he is sent away to practice his vows.
Whilst walking in the forest he places the bride's ring on the tree that resembles a hand only to discover it is, in fact, a real hand that grabs him, and up comes Emily (Helena Bonham Carter) who declares Victor her husband and takes him down to the land of the dead to celebrate
And even more for those of you who are Burton-adepts:
Tim Burton and actor Johnny Depp will team for a feature film version of the classic 1960s soap opera "Dark Shadows." the film will shoot in the fall, with Depp set to play the vampire Barnabas Collins, according to producer Graham King.
"We're actually going to shoot that film next September/October with Tim Burton and Johnny," King confirmed in an interview Friday in Los Angeles. To guarantee a fall release, King is already prepping production with screenwriters. "We've been working on the script a lot, even though he's working on 'Alice,'" King said. "We've been given a script. John August wrote the first screenplay. We're making some changes, but the film's going to be in production ..."
From 1966 to 1971, "Dark Shadows" was a daytime gothic soap opera on ABC, featuring Jonathan Frid as Collins. NBC attempted a prime-time series reboot in 1991 that stared Ben Cross.
(source: wired.com, denofgeek.com & rabbiddoll.com)
11/25/2009
The Muppets - Bohemian Rhapsody
This is truely amazing. I love, no worship the Muppets, but this is truely awesome. A parody on the opera-like song Bohemian Rhapsody, by Queen, but now 'for something completely different'. Watch in wonder.
11/24/2009
Liu Bollin - The Invisible man in Bodypaint
11/19/2009
Footage of James Kassay repeating Sleepy Rave (Font 8C) - Australia
James Kassay has repeated Sleepy Rave (Font 8C) in the Hollow Mountain cave, Grampians, Australia.
The endurance boulder problem links three Font 8A+ problems together and is part of the very famous boulder problem The Wheel of Life (Font 8C+). If James links the Font 7C problem of X-Treme Cool to the start of Sleepy Rave, he will get the ultra-coveted tick of The Wheel of Life.
Click the picture to see the footage.
11/11/2009
Chris Sharma new redpoint - "Sistema Analogico" hard 9a
Daila Ojeda is posting again... It took a while after her trip to Bishop USA. The PETZL team meating in Siurana gave Chris and Daila a boost to dig some hard routes in their favourite cave Sta Linya. Chis managed to redpoint "Sistema Analogico" hard 9a and Daila send "Deja vu" (Finestra)7c+ onsight!
Chris's ascent has been filmed by Mike Call for momentumvm.com and will be awaited shortly. Keep U posted.
(source: Daila Ojeda blog)
11/10/2009
Huber brothers repeat "Eternal Flame" (FA by Güllich/Albert '89)
During a four day period of good weather between 11th and 14th of August, Alexander and Thomas Huber managed the first RP ascent of the »Eternal Flame«, a legacy of the legendary German climbing team Güllich/ Albert from 1989.
This route runs with an impressive line through the South Buttress of Nameless Tower (6251m) amidst the Granite Mountains of Trango Group in the Karakoram. Its first ascenders could climb large parts of the route free. However, four pitches proved too difficult to complete the RP ascent. Climbing difficulties up to 5.12a at 6000 metres was a true pioneering achievement back then.
In the years that followed, climbers from all over the world tried to ‚free’ the »Eternal Flame«. In 2003, Denis Burdet from Switzerland free climbed two of the four aid pitches, with difficulties up to 5.13a. In 2005, Spanish climber Iker Pou found a possible solution to the problem of the 10th pitch: he discovered a variation to the right of the bolt ladders, but unfortunately, bad weather conditions prevented him from redpointing that pitch.
This summer, Thomas and Alexander Huber were so fortunate to have both, perfect conditions on the wall as well as a perfectly timed patch of good weather, which enabled them to make the first free ascent.
After they had investigated the first four pitches of the route and discovered a variation to the second pitch’s pendulum, the Huber brothers had to wait a few days for better weather conditions. Within four days they managed to redpoint the 24 pitches back to back – with difficulties up to 5.13a at an altitude of 6000 meters!
„I take my hat off to the achievement and free climbing instinct of the first ascenders. This route is a true enrichment for mountaineering“, says Alexander Huber. „With »Eternal Flame« Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich have passed on the best and most beautiful free climb on the globe. We are thrilled that we could play a little part in developing this route!“
Read more here
11/09/2009
11/03/2009
Rocklike Outdoor Speakers - Rockustics
Sturdy Econo Speakers Rock Your Knoll, Blast Your Neighbors
Finally, the perfect set of speakers to crank up Twisted Sister's "I Wanna Rock." The Pavoroccis are backyard boomers that will satisfy all your hard rock and metal cravings, and anything else you throw at them. Despite a campy appearance, these are some sophisticated outdoor speakers, with a clean, well-balanced and sharp sound. On the Beastie Boys' "Pass the Mic," they produced some spooky-cool imaging during the synth solo, and the tight, earth-shaking bass toppled several gnomes on our patio. Rockustics speakers are in play at high-profile places like the White House and Sea World — if they're good enough for Dubya and Shamu, they should work for you.
WIRED Speakers designed like rocks. Place them in the garden, and crank up the Led Zep and drive out those meddling gophers. Cabinets constructed of 90 percent recycled products.
TIRED What happens when the dog discovers these are perfect leg-lift height? Pricey. No indoor option with these speakers, unless you happen to live in a cave.
Electronics: Outdoor Speakers
Manufacturer: Rockustics
Price: $780, duh....for the seriously demented
(source: wired.com)
11/02/2009
10/28/2009
Ekaitz Maiz has made the first ascent of Basapiztien eremua 9a at Etxauri, Spain.
Bouldering in Arkansas - by Jimmy Webb
10/24/2009
10/19/2009
Nina Capres - Trailer Video Tuzgle
10/16/2009
The Power of Jam / Video from the roadtrip of Nicolas Favrese and Sean Villanueva
(source weblog of Nicolas Favresse)
10/14/2009
Berni Schwaiger - Anam Cara 8C (Silvretta)
Gunshow Boulder Venue Colorado
Lot's of action and the familiar buzz of a boulder contest. Note the fabulous 'rock structure' of the boulderwall and the yeah! mantle moves you can make on them. Real Bleau-like. Love it.
By the way click on the Vimeo Link in the top righthand corner of my blog. To give it the full size left click with the mouse and select 'full screen'. Njoy !!
10/13/2009
Frankenjura Climbing Update - Ondra / Bock / Seeger
Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.
10/12/2009
10/09/2009
Frank Bogerman and friends in Rocklands South Africa
10/08/2009
National Geographic captures Big Sequoia
The making of the above picture, which is composed of no less than 83 images, took the team three weeks and an assortment of climbing gear worthy of climbing a big wall. In a recent lecture at National Geographic in Washington, D.C., Nichols described his frustrations. Eventually, though, he devised a way to do redwoods justice. It involved three cameras, a team of scientists, a robotic dolly, a gyroscope, an 83-photo composite and a lot of patience. Check the short movie about the making (click picture below).
10/07/2009
Totem Pole Tasmania climbed free
All individual pitches of the original climb up the Totem Pole in Tasmania, Australia, were freed in January by Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins.
News from downunder sometimes takes time to sicker through: in mid-Janaury the original route up one of Australia's most iconic rock pillars, the Totem Pole on the SE coast of Tasmania, was finally climbed free by Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins. In a massive nine-month effort the two local climbers freed all the pitches of the first route up this remote sea-stack, established with the use of aid by John Ewbank and Allan Keller in 1968. The three pitch outing now goes free at grade 27, circa French 7c, and the two climbers were the first to point out that their style can still be greatly improved upon: they had freed the individual pitchs on seperate days and pitches two and three were split by a hanging belay. Those aspiring to climbing the line in a single push should be aware that the route takes fiddly trad, is run-out and solid for its grade.
(source: planetmountain.com)
10/06/2009
Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar Fb 8B
What do you get if you stack two of the best boulders in Rocklands, one of top of the other? The answer is Airstar, the Fb8b problem first ascended by Kilian Fischhuber this summer in South Africa's bouldering hotspot. Airstar was an old project. Klem Loskot, Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl and many others had tried it. This year when I returned to Rocklands Nalle Hukkataival told me about it, and both he and Kevin Jorgeson tried it a bit (see here for more).
Simon's Cat - Cartoon and Animation (NEW)
10/05/2009
Jason Kehl Routesetting at Mammut Boulder Games 2009
(source: revolution.com)
10/01/2009
Chris Sharma Climbing with Jibé Tribout
Chris Sharma and Jibé Tribout climb some crazy sport routes. JB is 45 something years old and still rollin'. Chris says that he was inspired by JB in his early climbing days and hopes he will be climbing as hard (or much harder?!) as him when he reaches that age.
Click the picture for a short movie about Chris trying and JB climbing Draconian Devil (8B+) on the Greek island Kalymnos.
9/30/2009
90 Grad - A movie about Urban Climbing
Boulderblok Rotterdam - Topo met Pocketroutes
(bron: www.bladoverklimmen.nl)
9/28/2009
Lounge with Ondra
'Amai', as the Belgian tend to say, or: 'Een fraai stukske klauteren' (translation: a wicked piece of scrambling, it is, isn't it?) :P
(source: kairn.com)