Tim Burton on the mov(i)e again - Interview and news

At the end of November, the Museum of Modern Art in New York mounted an exhibit of the sketches, paintings, storyboards, props, cartoons, and puppets created by director Tim Burton. Wired.com chatted with Burton about the birth of Edward Scissorhands, the rise of 3-D, and anthropomorphic coffee pots, look here for the interview.

The above picture comes from the set of 'a bride corpse' (2005) a brilliant puppet stop-motion film. Set in Victorian England, the story of Corpse Bride begins with an arranged marriage between recently bankrupt Victoria Everglot (Emily Watson) and Victor Van Dort (Johnny Depp). Put together by their parents, the two find that they really are attracted to each other and are more than happy for the wedding to go ahead. But when Victor makes a hash of the rehearsal he is sent away to practice his vows.
Whilst walking in the forest he places the bride's ring on the tree that resembles a hand only to discover it is, in fact, a real hand that grabs him, and up comes Emily (Helena Bonham Carter) who declares Victor her husband and takes him down to the land of the dead to celebrate

And even more for those of you who are Burton-adepts:
Tim Burton and actor Johnny Depp will team for a feature film version of the classic 1960s soap opera "Dark Shadows." the film will shoot in the fall, with Depp set to play the vampire Barnabas Collins, according to producer Graham King.

"We're actually going to shoot that film next September/October with Tim Burton and Johnny," King confirmed in an interview Friday in Los Angeles. To guarantee a fall release, King is already prepping production with screenwriters. "We've been working on the script a lot, even though he's working on 'Alice,'" King said. "We've been given a script. John August wrote the first screenplay. We're making some changes, but the film's going to be in production ..."

From 1966 to 1971, "Dark Shadows" was a daytime gothic soap opera on ABC, featuring Jonathan Frid as Collins. NBC attempted a prime-time series reboot in 1991 that stared Ben Cross.

(source: wired.com, denofgeek.com & rabbiddoll.com)

The Muppets - Bohemian Rhapsody

This is truely amazing. I love, no worship the Muppets, but this is truely awesome. A parody on the opera-like song Bohemian Rhapsody, by Queen, but now 'for something completely different'. Watch in wonder.

Liu Bollin - The Invisible man in Bodypaint

I stumbled upon this a while ago. Brilliant art work with the combination of bodypaint, camouflage and trompe l'oeil. Especially the last picture took me a while to spot the man. Stunning !

(source: stumbleupon.com)

Footage of James Kassay repeating Sleepy Rave (Font 8C) - Australia

James Kassay has repeated Sleepy Rave (Font 8C) in the Hollow Mountain cave, Grampians, Australia.

The endurance boulder problem links three Font 8A+ problems together and is part of the very famous boulder problem The Wheel of Life (Font 8C+). If James links the Font 7C problem of X-Treme Cool to the start of Sleepy Rave, he will get the ultra-coveted tick of The Wheel of Life.

Click the picture to see the footage.

Chris Sharma new redpoint - "Sistema Analogico" hard 9a

Daila Ojeda is posting again... It took a while after her trip to Bishop USA. The PETZL team meating in Siurana gave Chris and Daila a boost to dig some hard routes in their favourite cave Sta Linya. Chis managed to redpoint "Sistema Analogico" hard 9a and Daila send "Deja vu" (Finestra)7c+ onsight!

Chris's ascent has been filmed by Mike Call for momentumvm.com and will be awaited shortly. Keep U posted.

(source: Daila Ojeda blog)

Huber brothers repeat "Eternal Flame" (FA by Güllich/Albert '89)

During a four day period of good weather between 11th and 14th of August, Alexander and Thomas Huber managed the first RP ascent of the »Eternal Flame«, a legacy of the legendary German climbing team Güllich/ Albert from 1989.

This route runs with an impressive line through the South Buttress of Nameless Tower (6251m) amidst the Granite Mountains of Trango Group in the Karakoram. Its first ascenders could climb large parts of the route free. However, four pitches proved too difficult to complete the RP ascent. Climbing difficulties up to 5.12a at 6000 metres was a true pioneering achievement back then.

In the years that followed, climbers from all over the world tried to ‚free’ the »Eternal Flame«. In 2003, Denis Burdet from Switzerland free climbed two of the four aid pitches, with difficulties up to 5.13a. In 2005, Spanish climber Iker Pou found a possible solution to the problem of the 10th pitch: he discovered a variation to the right of the bolt ladders, but unfortunately, bad weather conditions prevented him from redpointing that pitch.

This summer, Thomas and Alexander Huber were so fortunate to have both, perfect conditions on the wall as well as a perfectly timed patch of good weather, which enabled them to make the first free ascent.

After they had investigated the first four pitches of the route and discovered a variation to the second pitch’s pendulum, the Huber brothers had to wait a few days for better weather conditions. Within four days they managed to redpoint the 24 pitches back to back – with difficulties up to 5.13a at an altitude of 6000 meters!

„I take my hat off to the achievement and free climbing instinct of the first ascenders. This route is a true enrichment for mountaineering“, says Alexander Huber. „With »Eternal Flame« Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich have passed on the best and most beautiful free climb on the globe. We are thrilled that we could play a little part in developing this route!“

Read more here

Conversation Qualities - Dilbert

Sorry for the long absence but the flu hit hard at our home :P

(source: Dilbert.com)

Rocklike Outdoor Speakers - Rockustics

Sturdy Econo Speakers Rock Your Knoll, Blast Your Neighbors
Finally, the perfect set of speakers to crank up Twisted Sister's "I Wanna Rock." The Pavoroccis are backyard boomers that will satisfy all your hard rock and metal cravings, and anything else you throw at them. Despite a campy appearance, these are some sophisticated outdoor speakers, with a clean, well-balanced and sharp sound. On the Beastie Boys' "Pass the Mic," they produced some spooky-cool imaging during the synth solo, and the tight, earth-shaking bass toppled several gnomes on our patio. Rockustics speakers are in play at high-profile places like the White House and Sea World — if they're good enough for Dubya and Shamu, they should work for you.

WIRED Speakers designed like rocks. Place them in the garden, and crank up the Led Zep and drive out those meddling gophers. Cabinets constructed of 90 percent recycled products.

TIRED What happens when the dog discovers these are perfect leg-lift height? Pricey. No indoor option with these speakers, unless you happen to live in a cave.

Electronics: Outdoor Speakers
Manufacturer: Rockustics
Price: $780, duh....for the seriously demented

(source: wired.com)

Bouldering the Dolphin - some Highball stuff on Video

The Dolphin from Garrett Gregor on Vimeo.

Ekaitz Maiz has made the first ascent of Basapiztien eremua 9a at Etxauri, Spain.

Basque climber Ekaitz Maiz has bolted and freed a new mega route at Etxauri, "Basapiztien eremua" on the north face of the Kantero. The route is a massive 90m long and is the 29 year old local has graded it 9a.Although Etxauri isn't one of Spain's most famous crags, perhaps it should be. As many will remember, the cliff made headline news at the end of 2007 when Patxi Usobiaga climbed into history with the first ascent and contemporaneously world's first 8c+ on-sight, Bizi euskara. The route was later repeated and the grade confirmed by Iban Larrion.Maiz explains briefly why the crag is so special: "Etxauri is a climbing area in Spain's Basque Country, circa 15 km to the west of Iruña (Pamplona). The crag counts some 800 routes and the imestone is of excellent quality. There is much climbing tradition and classic and sport routes coexist. The climbing is mainly technical and crimpy, but there are routes of all styles . The best time of year to visit Etxauri is in autumn and winter, although due to the sectors facing different directions we can climb all year round."

Click on the picture for footage of the route.

(source: planetmountain)

Bouldering in Arkansas - by Jimmy Webb

Check this out.Found two videos from Jimmy Webb from bouldering action at the Ozarks, Arkansas. The most cool and notable footage is about the possible 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma's 'The Zone' possible somewhat at the grade 8B.

Part 2 of bouldering in Arkansas

Comic Daylight Saving Time - Dirkjan Humour

I love it, this kind of humour !

Nina Capres - Trailer Video Tuzgle

Nina Capres on a month long roadtrip in Argentina with Mickael Fuselier, Julien Nadiras, Nina Caprez. Lots of highballs, stunning landscape and loads of fun. A pure bouldering teaser made by ABK. Click picture to start the trailer.

(source: ninacaprez.ch)

Dilbert - Unproductive time

Hello world. Goodmorning Monday.

Adam Ondra bouldering at Melloblocco 2009 - Airbag

Click the pic to start the video. Funky moves and the crashpad must be the (in)famous airbag...

The Power of Jam / Video from the roadtrip of Nicolas Favrese and Sean Villanueva

Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva spent four months in fall 2008 traveling western North America (the pair are from Belgium) with their climbing gear, a mandolin, a tin whistle and a penchant for hitchhiking. From Squamish to the Bugaboos to Yosemite to Indian Creek they did bold repeats, set new routes and played many a jam session along the way. Click the pic to check out the film about their trip.

(source weblog of Nicolas Favresse)

Berni Schwaiger - Anam Cara 8C (Silvretta)

Berni Schwaiger bouldering in the beautifull Silvretta (Austria) region. A short (duh) boulder route at 8C level with pretty small holds making body tension a must. Watch in awe (click picture to start the movie).

(source: climb-up.com)

Gunshow Boulder Venue Colorado

I found this video with footage on the net at Routesetter.com
Lot's of action and the familiar buzz of a boulder contest. Note the fabulous 'rock structure' of the boulderwall and the yeah! mantle moves you can make on them. Real Bleau-like. Love it.

By the way click on the Vimeo Link in the top righthand corner of my blog. To give it the full size left click with the mouse and select 'full screen'. Njoy !!

Frankenjura Climbing Update - Ondra / Bock / Seeger

Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.

A crisp autumn has facilitated important ascents in Germany's Frankenjura. Sarah Seeger kicked off the high-end action on Saturday 3 October with her redpoint of Steinbock, a steeply overhanging 22 move 8c at the Orakel first ascended by Markus Bock in August 2008. After redpointing Ronin (10+/11-) earlier this year, Steinbock is now Seeger's hardest route to date and contemporaneously is also the hardest route climbed by a woman in the Frankenjura.A day after Seeger's success Markus Bock experienced "one of the happiest moments" in his climbing career when he freed The Man That Follows Hell at the aptly named Grüne Hölle. Bock's latest effort is in fact an old project originally bolted by Milan Sykora (thge man who envisioned the line of Action Directe) and a direct start to the existing Kawaschuwu (8c+). The straightened out version weighs in at 9a+ and the 30 year old described it as follows for the German climbing magazine Klettern: "16 moves - exactly as many as Action Directe 9a - with comparable climbing and steepness - yet the individual moves are significantly harder." Bock stuck the crux on his seventh try on 4 October of what is now, together with his 2006 testpiece Corona, the Frankenjura's hardest route.Talking about Kawaschuwu - last weekend Adam Ondra repeated this route third go, a day after redpointing Pantera (9a) which he had first attempted in June. Ondra needed 4 days to climb this nth Bock creation, a record for the young Czech climber who no doubt will have "Follows Hell" high on his agenda.

(source: planetmountain.com)

Sigmund Cartoon - Monday Philosophy

(source: sigmund.nl)